Kainchi Dham in Apprenticed to a Himalayan Master: Sri M meets Neem Karoli Baba
Sent by his teacher from the caves of Kumaon, a young seeker finds a crowd, a Hanuman shrine, and a laughing saint who picks him out from the back row.
Checked by Sadhana Saarthi on
Much of what is written about Kainchi online does not say where its stories come from. So this piece stays close to one first-hand written account: Sri M's, in Apprenticed to a Himalayan Master.
What the source says
- Lineage text
After their meeting in the Kumaon caves, Sri M's teacher gave him a list of places to visit. One was Kainchi, which the book places between Ranikhet and Almora, to see the avadhoota Neem Karoli Baba.
Apprenticed to a Himalayan Master: A Yogi's Autobiography, Sri M, chapter 38
- Lineage text
Sri M arrived to hear that the Baba had come the day before. He describes a large image of Hanuman, a shrine to the Mother nearby, and the Baba seated on a raised verandah before more than a hundred people, repeating the name of Ram. From the last row, Sri M was noticed, called up, and pulled onto the Baba's lap, then sent away with greetings for his teacher. He spent that night at the ashram in deep meditation.
“Babaji ka baccha”
Apprenticed to a Himalayan Master: A Yogi's Autobiography, Sri M, chapter 38
What tradition holds
- Folklore
Many miracle stories about Neem Karoli Baba circulate. Sri M retells one he heard at the ashram that evening and presents it as a story he was told. We do not repeat such stories as fact.
What you will find today
The ashram is on the Nainital to Almora road, 9 km from Bhowali and 17 km from Nainital. The nearest railway station is Kathgodam (43 km) and the nearest airport is Pantnagar (79 km). It is open from 6:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Inside, Neem Karoli Baba's samadhi is in the main building, with a Hanuman temple a few steps away. Incredible India gives March to June, and September to October, as the pleasant seasons for the area.
The book places Kainchi between Ranikhet and Almora; the district administration places it in Nainital district. We quote the book as written and give the route from the official page.
Last checked via District Nainital, Government of Uttarakhand (https://nainital.nic.in/tourist-place/kaichi-dham/); Incredible India, Ministry of Tourism (https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/uttarakhand/nainital/kainchi-dham-ashram and https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/uttarakhand/nainital).
A practice for this place
This is a place of devotion, so keep the practice simple. Sit near the Hanuman shrine and repeat "Ram" silently on each out-breath for fifteen minutes.
When the mind wanders, come back to the name without fuss. On crowded days, go early and keep your visit short so that others can have their turn.
You can visit this place on the way during our Adi Kailash Yatra. Details here.