The Annapurna Circuit: what the trek actually asks of you
One of the great Himalayan walks, and a genuinely good place to find out how your body handles altitude before you commit to Tibet.
3 min read
The Annapurna Circuit runs around the Annapurna massif in central Nepal, climbing steadily up the Marsyangdi valley and crossing the Thorong La pass at roughly 5,416 metres before descending into the arid Mustang landscape and down the Kali Gandaki gorge. It is one of the most varied walks anywhere: subtropical terraces to high desert in a single trek.
It is also, for anyone considering Kailash, the most useful rehearsal available. Similar altitudes, similar sustained walking, teahouses instead of camping, and a way out that does not require a border crossing.
The shape of the route
Traditionally the circuit was a two to three week walk. Road construction on both sides has changed that — much of the lower valley can now be driven, and most itineraries start higher and finish earlier than they once did. In practice you will see itineraries from about ten days to eighteen.
- The ascent
- Up the Marsyangdi valley through Chame and Pisang to Manang at about 3,540 m. Gradual, green at first, increasingly stark.
- Manang
- The standard acclimatisation stop. Most itineraries build in at least one full rest day here, and it is the wrong place to economise.
- Thorong Phedi and High Camp
- The staging posts below the pass, around 4,500 to 4,900 m. A short, steep day.
- Thorong La, ~5,416 m
- Crossed before dawn to beat the wind, which rises through the morning. The hardest day of the trek by a distance.
- Muktinath and the descent
- Down into Mustang — a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists — then the long descent through the Kali Gandaki, said to be the deepest gorge in the world.
How hard it is
No technical climbing, no ropes, no glacier travel. What it asks for is the ability to walk five to seven hours a day, day after day, on rising ground, with a light pack — and to do that on the pass day at altitudes where the air holds roughly half the oxygen it does at sea level.
As on Kailash, altitude is the deciding factor rather than fitness. The circuit's advantage is that its ascent profile is naturally gradual, which acclimatises you far better than a vehicle-based approach.
Thorong La is higher than the Dolma La. The same rules apply, and the same warning signs.
Understanding altitudeWhen to go
- October to November
- The main season. Stable weather, clear mountain views after the monsoon, and the busiest trails and teahouses.
- March to May
- The second season. Warmer, rhododendron in flower at lower elevations, hazier views as the pre-monsoon builds.
- December to February
- Cold, quiet, and Thorong La may be closed by snow. Not a beginner's window.
- June to September
- Monsoon. Leeches, cloud, landslide risk on the approach roads. The Mustang side sits in a rain shadow and stays drier, but access is the problem.
Permits
Two are standard: the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and the TIMS card, both arranged in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Nepal's rules on independent trekking and guide requirements have changed in recent years and are worth confirming for the season you intend to walk, rather than relying on an older account.
Teahouse trekking
You do not carry a tent or food. Lodges along the route provide a bed and meals, which is why the circuit is accessible to people who would not consider an expedition. Expect basic rooms, shared bathrooms at higher elevations, and dal bhat as the reliable staple — the one dish that is fresh everywhere and traditionally comes with a refill.
- Carry a sleeping bag regardless. Blankets thin out as you climb.
- Charging and hot showers cost extra above Manang, and the price rises with altitude.
- Cash only, in Nepali rupees, above the roadhead. Draw enough in Besisahar or Pokhara.
- Water treatment saves both money and a great deal of plastic.
As preparation for Kailash
| Annapurna Circuit | Kailash Mansarovar | |
|---|---|---|
| Highest point | ~5,416 m (Thorong La) | ~5,630 m (Dolma La) |
| Days walking | 10–18 | 3 on the kora |
| Acclimatisation | Gradual, built into the route | Depends heavily on itinerary |
| Accommodation | Teahouses | Basic guesthouses |
| Permits | Nepal, straightforward | Chinese, months of lead time |
| Escape route | Walk or drive out | Limited, remote |
If you have never been above 3,000 metres, the circuit tells you something about yourself that no amount of gym work can. It is longer than the Kailash kora but lower-stakes at every point, and getting off it is always possible.
A shorter high-altitude journey inside India, with no Chinese permits and a six-day commitment.
Or start with Adi KailashHow we run the circuit, and what is included.
Walk it with usCommon questions
- How difficult is the Annapurna Circuit?
- There is no technical climbing — no ropes, no glacier travel. It asks for the ability to walk five to seven hours a day on consecutive days with a light pack, and to cross Thorong La at roughly 5,416 metres. As with any high trek, altitude rather than fitness is the deciding factor, though the circuit's gradual ascent acclimatises you well.
- How high is Thorong La pass?
- Approximately 5,416 metres. It is the highest point of the Annapurna Circuit and is usually crossed before dawn, because wind on the pass builds through the morning.
- What is the best time to trek the Annapurna Circuit?
- October to November is the main season — stable weather and clear views after the monsoon, though the trails are busy. March to May is the second season, warmer with rhododendron in flower but hazier. Winter can close Thorong La with snow, and the monsoon brings landslide risk on the approach roads.
- Do I need a guide for the Annapurna Circuit?
- Nepal's rules on independent trekking and guide requirements have changed in recent years. Confirm the current position for the season you intend to walk rather than relying on older accounts. The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and TIMS card are standard in either case.
- Is the Annapurna Circuit good preparation for Kailash?
- It is the most useful rehearsal available. Thorong La at ~5,416 m is close to the Dolma La at ~5,630 m, the sustained walking is comparable, and the ascent is gradual enough to teach you how your body responds to altitude — with the significant advantage that you can always walk or drive out.
Read next
- Altitude on the Kailash yatra: what to understand before you goAltitude is the most common reason a yatra goes wrong, and the least understood. What acclimatisation is, what it is not, and what to watch for in yourself and others.
- Preparing your body for the Kailash yatraKailash asks for sustained low-intensity endurance and efficient breathing, not strength or speed. What to train, in what order, starting six months out.
- Adi Kailash or Kailash Mansarovar: which yatra, and whyOne needs a Chinese visa and three weeks; the other is inside India and takes under a week. They are not substitutes for each other, and the choice is clearer than it looks.
- Kailash Mansarovar Yatra: a complete guideWhat the yatra actually asks of you: the routes into Tibet, the permits each one needs, the altitudes you will sleep at, and the three days of the kora.